a clunky and uncomfortable orange one for $10 won't do much good if you never wear it, and on the rare and unpredictable occasion you'll need a lifejacket, you want to already be wearing it rather than scrambling to grab it and put it on in cold/moving/windy/open water.
in terms of the paddle... had a carbon blend one which was great but when that disappeared during a move and i replaced it with one that had a cheap aluminium shaft w/ hard plastic blades. really didn't notice enough of a difference to make the additional $100 worth it. when it's cold enough to make the aluminum uncomfortable, i'm usually already wearing gloves or at home. you should be able to find these under $50, tho think the generic brands stop at 230 length so if you need something bigger you'll probably end up paying more for a name brand.
On Saturday, December 29, 2012 4:18:38 PM UTC-5, Vic Velasco wrote:
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is shaft material. Carbon fiber is slightly lighter, but doesn't transmit heat. Aluminum is the other material and it will suck the heat right out of your hands.The width (220, 230, 240, etc) is generally driven by the width of the kayak - basically you don't want to be jamming your knuckles into the gunnels everytime you take a stroke. I have a JK Big Tuna and at 35" width, I have to use a 240.There are several brands - Bending Branches, AT, etc - just google "Kayak Fishing Paddles" and several sites will come up. Cheap ones (Aluminum Shaft, Plastic paddle heads) should be at or around $100. The top of the line models (carbon everything) go for $300+As mentioned by Jeff, make sure to get the ones equipped with paddle rings (rubber rings placed near the paddle heads) - these will "help" to divert the water that the paddle heads pick up during the strokes/recovery. You will have to adjust the positioning of the rings to make them work well (mine are about 5" from the base of the paddle head).Most of the decision will be subjective as most of the paddles have subtle differences - with the exception of you being a "high" or "low" paddler. This determines the shape of the paddle head (low has the skinnier paddle head; high has the wider, shorter heads).When you go out to find a paddle, don't forget to get a PFD.
On Saturday, December 29, 2012 2:37:19 PM UTC-5, Brendan wrote:I'd recommend going cheap at first... should be able to find something useful and reliable under $50.find out what you like and don't like, what works with your boat, etc....unless you're doing longer expeditions and heavy paddling, have found that for poking around and fishing a $40 paddle works as well as a $150 one.
On Saturday, December 29, 2012 11:12:28 AM UTC-5, Scott S wrote:I know there are several posts on here specifically about kayaks, but I'm wondering about paddles. My wonderful wife (enabler that she is), got me an inflatable Kayak for Christmas, and I'm planning to get a paddle (and a paddle leash) for it this weekend. The Kayak is the Kwik-Tek Airhead Single Person, and it's my first boat.Is there anything that I need to consider when getting a paddle? I plan on using the boat on flat water like Roaches Run and probably on sections of the Potomac - Gravelly Point and Fletcher's.Any advice on paddle length, design, etc. would be very useful.Thanks!--Scott
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