They are easy to replace but your best bet Is to take it to Phil's Rod and Reel Repair in Arlington on Lee Hwy. One of the unique angling related shops in the US. He'll fix you up in a jiffy.
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Group: http://groups.google.com/group/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/topics
- Snake guide replacement advice needed [10 Updates]
- fishing an outgoing tide [3 Updates]
- which rod for the shenandoah? [3 Updates]
- Gunpowder Falls Question [6 Updates]
- [No Subject] [2 Updates]
- Sight fishing for Snakehead in Roaches Run Waterfowl Sanctuary [1 Update]
Clarence Fullard <fulla1cd@gmail.com> Jun 19 07:31AM -0700
I broke a snake guide on my 5wt Greys rod. It has a warranty, but between
the hassle of actually getting a hold of the customer service department,
paying the shipping, and forking over a warranty fee, I could purchase a
new rod with less hassle, the same cost, and faster shipping.......so:
Can anyone give me advice on how to replace a snake guide? I can't imagine
it is that difficult, though getting the wraps back on neatly could be
challenging without some sort of tool to spin the rod rather than spinning
the thread. I searched online and found the new guides to be inexpensive,
but I have no idea what size to get.
Thanks!
Clarence
Scott Stankus <sstankus@gmail.com> Jun 19 10:34AM -0400
I believe there is at least one local rod repair shop. Might be worth
getting a quote, as it might be less expensive than the warranty option:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/rod$20repair/tidal-potomac-fly-rodders/JFHvfey4wv0/1-OAVi50TdEJ
On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 10:31 AM, Clarence Fullard <fulla1cd@gmail.com>
wrote:
--
================================================
"There are 10 types of people in this world, those who know binary, and
those who don't"
Clarence Fullard <fulla1cd@gmail.com> Jun 19 07:44AM -0700
Excellent, thanks! I should have utilized the search function before
posting.
This dilemma got me thinking about rod building...something I've always
thought about doing but have never pursued. Who am I kidding, I barely have
time to tie flies and fish let alone build rods. Maybe one day.
Nedak <johngkaden@gmail.com> Jun 19 09:00AM -0700
The rod repair guy is Phil Evans – he's in Arlington at 3612 N. Lee
Highway. Phone – (703)528-3022
I think its $9/guide. I had one repaired a few backs after Sage lost
battle with car door.
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:44:34 AM UTC-4, Clarence Fullard wrote:
Steve Christopherson <stephen.christopherson@gmail.com> Jun 19 12:04PM -0700
Clarence,
It is not difficult to do, especially if the thread is a standard color,
but can be pain. Even if it's $25, it's still reasonable to have a pro with
the equipment and materials fix it; you will spend that much in materials
and shipping easily. You can learn to do it yourself though. Determine
which guide it is (counting from the tip down). Most manufacturers will
use two #1, two #2, two #3, two #4 (progressively larger towards the butt).
If it's a 8.5' or 9' there are probably 9 snake guides and 1 stripping, 8'
is probably 9 snake guides. You DON'T need any special equipment to wrap
the guide, just nylon rod wrapping thread and PacBay (I think) makes little
packages of rod finishing epoxy (to apply to the thread), and youtube. You
can use a cardboard box as a wrapping jig, throw the thread spool into a
coffee cup and run the thread through a book (stacking weight on the book)
to adjust the tension. I built my first two rods with this set up before
going with a professional set up. - Steve
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:31:52 AM UTC-4, Clarence Fullard wrote:
Jeffrey Nowak <nowak.jeff@gmail.com> Jun 19 03:33PM -0400
I broke a guide on my 5 wt. took it to this old guy in Arlington, $10 and
he had it done in two days.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/rod-and-reel-repair-arlington. No one can tell
which guide was replaced. I had thought about doing it myself but Im glad I
didn't. Plus the old guy was really nice and I was happy to give him
business. He's a real pro more like an artist, can't recomend him enough.
On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 3:04 PM, Steve Christopherson <
"Eric Y." <theericyoung@gmail.com> Jun 19 12:59PM -0700
I live one block from Phil's shop. Doesn't keep a lot of stuff in the shop,
but he's a super nice guy and did nice work on my surf casting rod. I think
I paid $8/guide. He also spools braid for a reasonable price. The hours
seem to be "whenever I feel like being there," but other than that, no
complaints here.
The only thing I'd be aware of is that you might void your warranty by
having him wrap on new guides. not a bit deal, perhaps, but it could be if
the rod were to break within the warranty period.
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 3:33:50 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
Dave Jamieson <davejamieson78@gmail.com> Jun 19 02:39PM -0700
I used to build my own rods. I eventually stopped, since it seemed the only
rods I ever broke were the ones I'd built myself, and obviously they didn't
have warranties. As Steve mentioned, you can use a shoebox as a wrapping
jig, which is how I did my first couple rods before buying a lower-end
wrapper. But honestly, unless you're looking to make a hobby out of it, I'd
have somebody else rewrap a new guide. It's not rocket science, but it
takes a little time to learn how to wrap and finish a guide cleanly (the
first rod I built, a little 3 weight I still use for brookies, is strong
evidence of that). And I don't think you'd save much money doing it on your
own. In fact, if that guy will do it for $10, you won't save any money at
all, between the thread and epoxy.
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 3:59:07 PM UTC-4, Eric Y. wrote:
Clarence <fulla1cd@gmail.com> Jun 19 06:11PM -0400
Thanks all. I didn't realize there was a rod repair shop in town, so I'm definitely going to take it there. Don't really care if I void this warranty, as their customer service and warranty is pretty useless unless you have a very expensive rod.
Steve Christopherson <stephen.christopherson@gmail.com> Jun 19 04:04PM -0700
I teach rod building and casting at Project Healing Waters - Fort Belvoir
and we have quite a production line going - but we mostly buy kits and have
good program supplied equipment and the best supplies, something most
builders don't have at their disposal when they start out.
The truth about building is you can make a great rod from a mediocre rod
blank using the correct components, good technique and patience.
Conversely, one could build a mediocre rod on a premium rod blank. Another
fact is manufacturers often degrade the performance of their own blanks
with traditional components one has come to expect, rather than the ones
that would maximize the performance and life of the rod, and usually
because it would cut into profit margin and most anglers are happy with the
product anyway. The little details are what make a great rod though IMHO.
Some of it is esthetics, but frankly a Fuji graphite spinning reel seat
costs about $8 and hands down out lasts and out performs most $50 fly reel
seats, but you'll never see one on a commercial rod because it's not
downlocking rosewood or an anodized aluminum the manufacture doesn't
actually make. Incidentally, If you see a Fuji on a fly rod, it's
definitely custom, and probably a excellent rod.
There is nothing economical about it building your own, like fly tying, you
won't really save money. There's a reason why a custom fly rod is usually
more expensive than it's commercial cousin though - especially if you, or a
pro builder can make tweaks to conform to your casting and fishing style,
or tweaks to improve your casting and fishing. You probably can't tell
difference between a custom Orvis Superfine Touch . But if you want a Ritz
grip, smaller guides, different color wraps, a fighting butt on a 4 weight
(why not?) then you'll have to either build it, or have it built custom.
I would encourage any of you to consider building your own rod, at least
one. There's decent blanks and components on ebay to get started as well.
I too have less time to tie flies incidentally because of it, but I can
usually mooch a few flies.
Steve
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:31:52 AM UTC-4, Clarence Fullard wrote:
Jeff Tranguch <jjt410@gmail.com> Jun 19 11:26AM -0700
Hi all,
I've often heard that it's always best to fish the Potomac and it's tidal waters during an outgoing tide. Does anyone know the reasoning behind this concept? Are there certain times during an outgoing tide that are better to fish than others? (E.g., fishing as soon as the tide starts going out vs. Fishing just before it starts to come back in.)
Many thanks.
Jeff
Yambag Nelson <northstreetwreckingcrew@gmail.com> Jun 19 02:00PM -0700
I don't think that is really true. I think it matters more where are you
fishing. Gravelly Point for example, seems to be favored on an outgoing
tide. I always seem to do better at fletchers on an incoming tide. In
general, fishing dead low or dead high is never the best, and that goes for
pretty much everywhere there are tides. Maybe there are exceptions...
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 2:26:19 PM UTC-4, Jeff Tranguch wrote:
Mike Bailey <mike@baileywx.com> Jun 19 05:21PM -0400
An incoming tide near the Potomac River fall line allows the food chain to
filter in and become a captive audience for predators who might hold in
waiting, to feed, as the tide flows out.
I prefer a moving tide. More so the outgoing.
On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 5:00 PM, Yambag Nelson <
"D. Walker" <williamdaviswalker@gmail.com> Jun 19 01:00PM -0700
On the topic of Up-lining your rod. I currently am in the market for a new
reel, and have a 5/6 wt rod. that I use for most everything. my present
reel is a 5wt, so I was thinking of getting a 6wt reel. with this though
would you guys suggest a 7wt on my 5/6 rod to help throw some larger flies.
I fish for stuff around here trout, bass and im on the hunt for a
snakehead. just looking for suggestions. I also have a 7/8 wt fiberglass
rod that I have an 8wt reel for already.
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 12:00:40 PM UTC-4, Dan Davala -
Founder/President wrote:
Yambag Nelson <northstreetwreckingcrew@gmail.com> Jun 19 02:02PM -0700
Most reels are not made for a specific line weight. I am guessing the reel
that you have a 5 weight line is the same real that they would recommend if
you were putting a 6 weight line on it. Most reels are good for a few line
weights and can be used on a few different weight rods.
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 4:00:23 PM UTC-4, D. Walker wrote:
Jeffrey Silvan <jeffreysilvan@gmail.com> Jun 19 05:13PM -0400
Agreed. All you need to worry about is decent balance with the rod and
enough spool capacity for your line and enough backing so you don't get
spooled if you're targeting fish that can take drag.
On Jun 19, 2014 5:02 PM, "Yambag Nelson" <northstreetwreckingcrew@gmail.com>
wrote:
Ryan D <ryan.diandrea@gmail.com> Jun 19 05:43AM -0700
I'm trying to decide where to fish Gunpowder. Has anyone fished the
Wildlands Loop trail just off rt.1? Any Gunpowder advice would be helpful.
Thanks,
-Ryan
tperkins <thomas.perkins1@gmail.com> Jun 19 05:58AM -0700
I would suggest fishing the stretch below Pretty Boy reservoir. That is
where the wild trout are, it can be tough fishing but it is beautiful and
cold water. Stop by Backwater Anglers or Great Feathers for advice on flies
and spots. I like fishing from Masemore road up or down. Also Falls Rd is a
good place to start. Tight lines!
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 8:43:25 AM UTC-4, Ryan D wrote:
TurbineBlade <doublebclan@gmail.com> Jun 19 06:00AM -0700
It depends -- during the week you have a lot of options, on weekends you
might have to locate spots between people. I've fished from the "flight of
steps" up at the dam down through Falls road, Masemore, and a little
further down. I prefer stretches of fairly shallow water where soft
hackles produce well because I'm lazy and I hate pulling boogers off of
nymphs on every cast. That's just me though --
It's a good place to just hike up and down and explore.
Gene
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 8:43:25 AM UTC-4, Ryan D wrote:
Ryan D <ryan.diandrea@gmail.com> Jun 19 06:20AM -0700
Thanks guy. On Google maps I think i see a little parking area just before
the bridge on Masemore rd. I'll give that spot a try. I'm having a hard
time finding somewhere to pull off by Falls rd. I guess I just need to
drive up there and find something. Correct me if I'm wrong but there is
parking up on the Prettyboy dam right?
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 8:43:25 AM UTC-4, Ryan D wrote:
Ryan D <ryan.diandrea@gmail.com> Jun 19 06:22AM -0700
*Thanks guys.
haha sorry
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 8:43:25 AM UTC-4, Ryan D wrote:
tperkins <thomas.perkins1@gmail.com> Jun 19 08:12AM -0700
Hey Danny,
The parking at Masemore can get crowded, both by fisherman and hikers, but
there are two (I believe) parking area at Falls RD. One is farther from the
river but it accesses a trail that takes you towards the dam. The other lot
is closer and the river is right there. Another spot to check is Bunker
Hill RD. It used to cross the river but now it dead ends there. There is a
big parking lot about a half mile from the river on the south side, or you
can get close to the river using the northern section of the road.
On Thursday, June 19, 2014 9:22:42 AM UTC-4, Ryan D wrote:
namfos <mark.sofman@gmail.com> Jun 19 05:51AM -0700
Gurgler bodies keep the hook point clear. They all look good, Danny. The
fish will be the final arbiter.
Mark
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:50:44 PM UTC-4, Danny Barrett wrote:
Matthew Longley <matthew.longley@gmail.com> Jun 19 07:56AM -0700
Gurglers traditionally have a much more forward protruding lip - it's what
makes them "gurgle". I usually tie down the lip and do my hitches right
there on top of the foam. Just food for thought.
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:50:44 PM UTC-4, Danny Barrett wrote:
Misha Gill <misha4455@gmail.com> Jun 19 06:26AM -0700
They were the large versions carried by Orvis, about a size 4 I think. As
poppers go, however, that's not that huge.
On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 4:53:39 PM UTC-4, Paul Kalajainen wrote:
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