XCALAK (pronounced ISH-KA-LAK) sits at the very southern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula. A narrow cut no wider than the Potomac at Chain Bridge makes up the border between Mexico and Ambergris Caye, Belize. It's a very remote location and takes a bit of getting to, so we flew to Cancun, stayed the night, then rose early the next morning to catch the shuttle that Costa arranged for us.
The drive time from Cancun to Xcalak is around 5 hours, so of course, we promptly stopped at the Siete-Once to load up on cervezas. Apparently, the exchange rate is VERY different at that particular Siete-Once, since somehow a sixer of Sols and a bag of ice ran me about $18.50!!! Pretty sure the beer was only about 120 pesos ($9), so that was some pricey ice! It kept the beers frosty cold though, so I'm not sure you can put a value on that, and I'm certain my correct change went to a good cause anyway.
Apart from one honeymooning couple, and a few locals and expats who would come to the bar on some evenings, our group had the whole place to ourselves. The guides were awesome, the staff was ever-present accommodating, and the margaritas - PHENOMINAL!!!
Bonefish were the main focus of the trip, and even on the first day out, all thirteen of us got into them thick. For many in the group, these were the first Bones they had ever caught, so it was a huge success right from the start, and things stayed pretty awesome for the rest of our time there. Most days were in the mid 80s with a mix of clouds and sun. Things started off quite windy, but as the week progressed the winds diminished and it turned glassy by the end.
John and I fished together each day with our guide, NACHO (yes, he knew all the lines from the movie) and he was excellent. He had a very "Old Man and the Sea" quality to him in the way he spoke to the fish and the elements. For instance, we'd be on a flat with good visibility, then some clouds would roll in making it tough to spot fish, and he'd say, "Come on clouds, go away! Give me a chance!". Or, "Come on wind, go away!" Or, "Come on fish, wake up! Don't be lazy." It was very earthy and cool, and you could tangibly feel his connection and relationship to the natural world in which he made his living.
John, Nacho, and I spent the majority of our time hunting Permit on the flats, or chasing (mostly in vain) the local baby Tarpon population in the mangroves that get a lot of pressure, but we'd target and catch Bones every day as well. We also kept an 11-weight rigged at all times to throw at the MONSTER 'Cudas that balance out the Bay's fish population. I hooked a 4-footer at one point but he destroyed my leader ABOVE the wire and left a hole in the water as he darted away. We got good shots at some big Permit each day, and we each got a baby Tarpon, though mine wriggled away before we could get a picture.
It was an awesome time, at an awesome place, with an awesome group of guys. Here are a bunch of shots from the week to give you a feel for the place, and to maybe make you feel just a tad bit warmer today. Nick Swingle (of Two-Fisted Heart productions) was on the trip with us too, so I'm sure he'll follow up soon with some of his incredible pictures as well.
Definitely looking forward to a return trip soon!
Dan Davala
http://www.tpfr.org
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