Re: {Tidal Potomac Fly Rodders} Re: Kayak fly rod?

Gene, You are right.   Fact is, even with the cool gadgets, I figure that I might not be able to hack the line off fast enough anyway, so I don't use anchors except in still or slow water, PERIOD.   For years now I have studied the hole anchor thing, trolleys, drag anchors…I use this system now almost everywhere: https://waywardangler.com/fly-fishing-from-a-kayak/  EXCEPT in fast current.   

Dan Davala  used to credit me with the idea of a  dog leash, but the truth is I picked up on the idea from some obscure forum a long time ago on the internet.  When this TPFR first started, very few of us were using kayaks on the river. We made a lot of mistakes and I for one learned this: kayaks aren't really set up for anchors, or sails for that matter.    If you've seen the Master and Commander film, the ship looses its mast and the weight of the rig trailing behind the boat in the high sees (lines still attached to the ship) threatened to sink the boat.  The same thing happened to me on the Upper Potomac, and once on a lake in the swells of a speed boat.  Anchoring a kayak as a dive platform, the reason for the SOT design initially, is very different than for a angler who needs to be very mobile.  The kayak sea anchors are suited for divers, not anglers in my opinion.  

Using a dog leash, get the longest you can find (25ft) and never lock it.  the boat will drift back and forth, the line will extend and draw itself back in.  If you need to anchor in deeper water, think about it first, where a PFD and paddle with a buddy.  If you are paddling the upper Potomac, think about using natural features to ground your boat, a rock, shallow gravel bed, sand bar, weeds.  In fact, I leave the anchor below deck on fast water (defined by my comfort level, which is "difficult to stand in").   

I have SOTs and will often use an old ski pole as a tie out pole, or driven down through the scupper into the river/lake bottom. Works great and doubles as a wading staff when you want to get out of the boat, which I do often.   

If you go with an anchor, I would highly recommend a neoprene coated 3 lb weight (Walmart) and 2 sections of 18 to 20 inches of chain wrapped in duct tape, each should have a break away zip tie, something light duty that will break off with force.  I would stay away from any other "kayak" anchors.  These boats are so light, they don't need much to hold them.  the dumbbell will hold the best, but drag up vegetation more than the chain when you retrieve it.  The chain will drag a bit in the wind and light current, and so I will sometimes add the second chain length.  If the wind is still dragging me, it's probably too windy to fish anyway (we're talking 20 knots on open "still" water).  

Anyway, my two cents.  

Steve

On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:01 PM, TurbineBlade <doublebclan@gmail.com> wrote:

For sure -- I wouldn't want to have to cut a rope in a split second to save my bacon....carrying a knife is something I almost always do, but the idea that I'd actually be able to reach it in time sounds not so good to me......kind of like welding without a face shield with the idea that I'd just "turn my head" if some sparks started shooting out ;).  

 Beth picked up a couple of pretty neat PFDs with fishing tackle compartments....making me much more likely to use it.  I figure this is probably a good thing.  

Still trying to figure out the anchor system.  Again, I appreciate the wisdom!  I really enjoy peaceful, slack areas so I'm thinking a 3-pound dumbell weight with a rope that I could sit on would probably work for my needs (not that I'll do that, just describing) - I'll probably just work out something with those climbing hook things and clamps to contain the extra rope.  

I went out and did some casting this evening from a sitting position as alluded to earlier ^^.  It was a little easier that I recall on the water, but that's almost always the case ;).  I'm sure I'll get used to it.  

Gene

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